Wednesday, January 4, 2017

1972 - Mt. Cheam, Mt. Wedge, Nearly Weart






Mt. Cheam - Fraser Valley
Location of Mt. Cheam

My Flickr site for more pictures - 








Summit in the background


Ken Willis and I set off during the spring for Mt. Cheam. We bivied just up the old road on the west side of Cheam and spent the night. Early the next morning we set off and higher up the snow was firm and made for fast going.


The Fraser River below


There was a little gendarme up on the ridge which forced us out on the west side for some steep snow climbing for one pitch, but it was protected well.


Lots of cornices


From there to the summit we just weaved our way through little gulleys sculpted by the force of the wind. A great trip and view!

Wedge Mountain - Garibaldi Park - Coast Range
Location of Mt. Wedge


West side of Mt. Wedge

Alan and I headed off for the west ridge of Wedge soon after I got back from my first year of teaching in Powell River. We drove my parents old 55 Pontiac station wagon up the logging roads as high as I dared, and then struck off into the timber and the wooded crest of the west ridge.
We made camp with great weather in our forecast but even though it was July, it was very chilly when the sun went down.


Never eat yellow snow.





The north ridge is more aesthetic.


To reach the summit via the west ridge, you have to go up this incredible pile of scree and talus. Even though we didn't have to come up the whole slope in the picture, it still seemed like a long way to me. The view from the summit made it all worth while.
We reached the top in brilliant sunshine to discover a couple of guys coming up the north ridge. One of them was wearing a Mao button. Were they on a political climb? :-) They said that they had gone up a trail to Wedgemont Lake and stayed in a nearby hut! A real trail! A hut! New plans formed in our heads!

Nearly Weart - Weart-Wedge Area of Garibaldi Park
Location of Mt. Weart


Wedgemount Lake Hut with Mt. Wedge in the sunshine.


Lanny Martiniuk and I made a trip up to the hut at Wedgemount Lake just north of Whistler early in the summer. 


North side of Mt. Wedge.


We ended up going up the southern slopes of Weart's sub peak to the south and when we got to the top, only then did we realize that Weart was still to the north. 


The future owner of Stoneboat Wines!


We had a glorious glissade down slopes to the west and did a bit of exploring of a huge crevasse on the upper edge of the Armchair Glacier. A good time even if we didn't climb Weart!
Wedgemount Lake is just to the right of Lanny, with Green Lake in the valley bottom.

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