1979 - Diedre, Conrad Kain Hut, Mt. Weart, Tantalus Range

Diedre - The Apron - Squamish
Location of the Apron
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Old piton scars make for good holds.

Diedre has to be one of the most popular climbs on the Apron. The approach involves some slab climbing and then most of it consists of this right facing corner.
For some of it, you can slide your fingers up the crack until if finds old pin scars for a better hold. At about 5.7 it is not terribly difficult but does involve some runouts on the slabs. Protection on the diedre itself is quite good.

Not as steep as it looks.

What can one say? It's a great climb. :-)


Conrad Kain Hut - Bugaboos
Location of the Conrad Kain hut

Hut in the lower part of the picture.

We made another trip into the Bugaboos. If I remember correctly we didn't do that much climbing because of the weather, but it was good just to be back in that area.
The hut is in the lower part of the picture.

Mt. Weart - Garibaldi Park
Location of Mt. Weart

Mt. Wedge.

The trail is always a grunt. It is steep, steep, and more steep. When you reach the crest at timberline, the view of the hut and Wedgemont Lake make it all worthwhile. The peak in the distance is Mt. Wedge.

Approaching the summit.

The last bit was on some slushy snow with big drop offs to either side, so we used a rope as you can see in the picture.


Lake Lovely Water - Tantalus Range - Coast Range
Location of Lake Lovely Water

Mt. Lydia in the background.

Chris, bless his heart, organized this trip. I think his interest in organizing trips at this stage was just a portend of things to come later. We flew into Lake Lovely Water from Squamish in just a few minutes and were immediately in a different world again. How amazing it is to be whisked so quickly into another realm.

Our bivy site just below the Serratus-Alpha col.

We left Chris's steaks to turn green in the summer warmth, and headed off for a bivouac up on the southern sides of Alpha and Serratus. 

Red dots up (not recommended), green dots easy descent (aprox.)

I took this picture of the "Russian Army Camp" (big flat area) and the south side of Serratus from the top of Mt. Niobe later the same trip.

In this picture are Chris Cooper, Chris Pennel, and Rick Clements standing, and sitting are me (Keith Rajala), David Harris, and Chuck McCafferty.

Chuck enjoying the view of Iona, Pandareus, and the Red Tusk.

The next day Rick and I went up Alpha, while the others made an attempt on Tantalus. After that, some guys had to fly home, while Chris, Chuck, and I did some more fishing and made good use of our frying pans and cooking oil! We also made a trip up Niobe and Pelops. It was a great trip.
The picture of Chuck here shows the view over to the Red Tusk area west of Lake Lovely Water

Rick Clements on the "crux" between the snowfields and the upper slopes of Alpha.