1979 - "The Rock Climber" Carving, The Squamish Buttress, North Ridge of Mt. Baker

Welcome to 1979!

Chris and Keith having fun.
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"The Rock Climber" Carving
Location of the Squamish Chief

Carving by Jack Peterson

The carving in the rock to the left is on the trail that leads to the Grand Wall area. Up until 2008, I had no idea who did this wonderful carving. Then I got this email from Victor Peterson...
"I was there in 1969 when the carving was done. I was only about 7 years old at the time and played in the forest with my brothers and sister while my father worked on the rock.

The artist's name is Jack Peterson, He used a five pound sledge with a custom made handle that he carved to fit his hand. His only other tools were a selection of rock chisels, maybe five in total of various sizes.

Many of his other works are in museums and private collections around the world.

He always referred to the carving at the base of the Chief as "The Rock Climber" and was done as a tribute to the many climbers that scaled that amazing rock face. I think he always dreamed of scaling the face himself while he was carving the stone and we spent many days watching the various climbers work their way to the top. He did take the entire family up the back trail one day so we could stand at the top and look down on the Sound. What an incredible view."

Victor Peterson"

The Squamish Buttress - The Chief - Squamish
Location of the Squamish Chief

Getting ready for the next lead.

We went up Diedre for a start, and then up the sometimes quite vegetated lower sections of the buttress. It was nice to get away from the crowds. 
You almost felt like you were in the mountains, and yet you could still hear cars down on the highway.

I'm not sure why I have that puzzled look on my face.

This can be free climbed.

One of the best parts of the climb is a 80 foot steep pitch cut by a could of vertical cracks. I led it on aid as I am not that good, especially when I'm already a bit tired. It was fun and rewarding. The last bit just below the summit on the west side is this great crack on clean rock that just sucks up your hands and feet. A fun way to finish things off.

North Ridge of Mt. Baker - Cascade Range - Washington State
Location of Mt. Baker and the North Ridge.

Roosevelt Glacier in the background.

Mike Goetz lost a water bottle at the base of the Coleman Headwall during a break. I remember it skidding across the frozen snow and down into some nameless crevasse. I remember thinking, "Gee, it looks like Mike's going to get thirsty today!"
We had camped on the big flat area of the Coleman Glacier and were up before the sun. With the twinkling lights of Vancouver fading in the early morning predawn, we scooted under the Coleman Headwall where Mike lost his water bottle, and gained the north ridge. It quickly became windy and chilly, so we donned our wind pants and looked up at the upper reaches of the north ridge from close range for the first time.

Not as steep as it appears.

The snow was firm and crunchy and gaining the north ridge was straight forward if you liked third classing French technique with a slide into large crevasses below you.
We know the crux of the climb was going to be the ice cliff at around 9600 ft.

How challenging will it be?

Chuck is approaching the crux .

Chuck building an anchor.

It steepened up below the ice bulge but the snow was good for kick stepping. Chuck led up to the ice bulge and put in a couple of screws and Mike and I came up. There was only about 10 meters of steep ice, and then the angle eased off. There was a large crevasse that separated the summit crater from the upper glacier, but was easily negotiated.

Mike taking a shot.

In this picture we have got over the ice cliff area immediately behind Mike. Behind Mike is the Roosevelt Glacier.

Taking a break in the heat.

As we approached the summit, the heat and tiredness certainly starts to set in. Just behind Chuck it starts to drop off and the Coleman Headwall is below. Just to the left of his knee you can see the remains of an avalanche that has come down the headwall a couple of thousand feet below.

I remember trudging over to the actual summit on the south-east corner of the crater and looking down to see the ever present steam jets and the small lake in Sherman Crater and taking a break with the faint smell of sulfur to add to the smell of our food.As usual, the snow on the descent was soft and the heat enervating. By the time we got to the car, the feet and legs were sore and tired, but my spirits were still high up on the mountain