1976 - Origins of the Lobsters, Garibaldi Lake Skiing, Hollyburn Mountain Skiing, Cookie Jar

The Origins of the Red Lobsters - as written by Randy Wheating
 
My Flickr site for more pictures - 

The Red Lobster name originates during a period that could be known as "The
Golden Age" of Lobsterism, circa 1976. Young, childless, energetic. Remember the regular slide show evenings at Keith, Chris, or Garvin's house? We all had that book "Fifty Classic Climbs of North America". Pre Gorertex. Lowe Expedition packs. Wooden ice axe shafts.

The Red Lobster name originated in the early summer of 1976 on a large group trip up Mt. Foley. Members were (as I recall): me, brother Gary (rare trip), Gord Shellborn, Ryan Shellborn, Al Lizee, and Garvin Morse (this was the summer Garvin and Al did a lot of climbing together). We hiked up the mule trail to camp in the col just below the peak proper. We all lounged around in the afternoon sun with our shirts off wearing our wool knickers and glacier goggles. Someone said we would all become sun burned. Red. Like a lobster.

Ryan and Gary slept in a snow cave. We were getting into the "no sleeping bag, bivouac in all your clothes and cagoule go super light program". I remember Gary saying that Ryan kept waking his up in the night with his shivering.

We all went on the ascent the peak the next day. Gary and I by the regular route (traverse the snow field and climb the ridge) while the others climbed directly up the east (?) face. We all met on the summit. I remember Al saying to me that we (Gary and me) did well as our route required some route finding and technical bits. I realize now it was pretty easy but was very flattered by the compliment at the time.

Garibaldi Lake Skiing
Location of Garibaldi Lake


One of the things we like to do during the winters back in the 70s, was to go up to the Garibaldi Lake area and ski. This picture is on Ken Willis bathing in the warmth of a (stove) candle in one of the shelters at the Battleship Island area. 

Hollyburn Mountain Skiing

Location of Hollyburn Mountain It's a short trip to Hollyburn from Maple Ridge, and back in 1976 you could go up and ski for free and most of the people wore wool and a lot had Scandinavian accents. Our tax dollars paid forthe plowing of the road and the mountain was in a park. Now, commercialism and privitization has taken over and you have to pay to ski in our park. Here Todd and Judy Huston enjoy the view over to Vancouver Island. Cookie Jar - Squamish Chief Location of the Squamish Chief Just north of the Grand Wall route at the base of the chief is a short climb that combines rock and tree climbing, and bolt ladders. What a combo! Leaning way out to the rock face while holding onto a tree limb to clip into a rusty bolt wasn't in any rock climbing manual that I could remember. Anyway, once on the bolt ladder and I had clipped into a couple of bolts, I felt safer. After shuffling right on some small ledges, and lay backing up a left facing corner and up into some trees, I got myself a secure belay. Once the rest of the guys came up, an interesting thing happened. The sky started to fall. Holy Hell! Rocks were screaming down in a gray hurtling blur from the top of the Chief and crashing into the trees below us. My helmet suddenly felt useless. No sooner than the rock fall had started, it stopped. We finished off the climb and scrambled off the big ledge to the left and onto the ground. What a rush! Why we tied the rope to the tree during the rappels, I don't know. As you can see, it wasn't a great idea. Oh, yes, aren't you glad clothing styles have changed since 1976?