2007 - North Ridge of the Golden Ears

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Exploring the North Ridge of the Golden Ears
Location of the Golden Ears

Alan Lizee Looking back to the main peak from the SW peak

In the picture above, Alan stands on the south-west peak of the Golden Ears. He has spent time earlier this year exploring possible ways to a spring traverse of the Golden Ears, and after that not working out, has spent time exploring the north ridge .  My goodness this guy has energy!

Needle, Edge, and the Golden Ears from Robie Reid

Needle, Edge, and the Golden Ears from Robie Reid

North ridge of the main peak viewed from the SW peak.

During a couple of one-day hikes in the last week of August, I explored the north side of the Golden Ears. On the first hike, clouds obscured the unfamiliar traverse towards the north ridge; so I opted for the regular, south ridge route to the summit where I could feel my way through the clouds. With more snow than usual on the approach slope, I was able to bypass the lower half of the ridge to make it to the main (East) summit quickly. By then, the visibility improved, and the day was young, so I headed to the West summit, a pleasant class 2 scramble. The weather continued to improve, so I circled the upper slopes between the two peaks to finish by climbing the main, class 2 North ridge from 1550 metres to the summit at 1716 metres. This entire upper circle was pleasant and fun, and it did not matter that the clouds obscured all the views. The hike took nine hours, car-to-car.

The upper N ridge of the SW peak which I descended. The entire ridge is a pleasurable
ramble and easily accessed from the east by stepping over the main N ridge,
crossing the moderate gully, then ascending ramps to the crest.

Clouds quickly engulfing the North ridge, soon to be socked-in, the toe of light-gray rock was
planned start point until the clouds rolled in, from there you can walk across a wide
gullet to gain the N ridge of the other Ear

I returned six days later in full sunshine. I chose a direct traverse from the end of Panorama Ridge to gain the North ridge at 1400 metres, slightly higher than the emergency shelter. Three or four snow gullies separated by ribs of rock and rubble were crossed on route.

A lousy photo with lens-glare but it gives a sense of looking straight up the North ridge
from 1400m. I think the crests of all three steps are visible with just the summit out of sight.

Peeking to the terrain on the West side of the ridge at 1400m.

From 1400 metres, the North ridge rises in three steps. The lowest, most innocent-looking step seemed to be class 4, so I opted to bypass it via a steep snow gully to the West. Looking up from the gully, I could see that the bypassed ridge crest was also brush choked. Unfortunately, I learned the hard way that crampon season had begun, and was relieved to get off the hard, dense snow at the base of the second step, an intimidating looking buttress.
The buttress was easy to climb on its west face after squeezing up inside a moat to gain an easy, fun class 3 chimney. Using the chimney, I gained the ridge and familiar terrain a few metres below the ramp I used on the previous hike. This hike took 9.5 hours from car to car.

Looking down the North gully

Looking down to the class 2 ramp on the West side of the buttress, the chimney emerges
from the notch straight below the photographer, and you can see the background
rib and snow which was traversed on the first hike