1975 - North Face of Castle Towers

North Face of Castle Towers - Garibaldi Provincial Park
Location of Castle Towers
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Late in the summer, Garvin Morris and Alan Lizee suggested that we go and climb the north face of Castle Towers. I hadn't done that much climbing that year, but I wasn't going to let that stop me from doing some seconding.
Whenever I think of the "north face" of anything, I think of some of the books I have read about north faces and the thought conjures up visions of epics. I was excited about the thought of doing the north face of Castle Towers.



We made an early start on the trail up to Black Tusk Meadows and went up and over the Helm Glacier and down to a campsite at Gentian Pass. The view above shows the north face of Castle Towers. We climbed up the right hand part of the face that is in shadow and came out on the ridge just in the gap immediately to the west of the summit tower.



On the way up the next morning, Alan practiced a little ice climbing while we were taking a break in a crevasse. He always has so much darn energy!
The climb on the face was a lot easier than what he was climbing here. Thank goodness!



The morning light was wonderful. It was cool, and the glacier was interesting but safe, in spite of the view in the picture above. The climb up the glacier to the bergshrund on the north face was interesting because of the route finding amidst the crevasses and occasional seracs.



After creating a good belay at the burgschrund, Garvin lead the first pitch.The picture above is actually the last pitch of the climb, leading out from the belay at some rock Alan had set up.



After Garvin had done the first pitch, I climbed up to him and anchored myself the best I could. Alan then came up to me and kept on going as he was third. He made his was up to a small rock outcropping and used a few chocks to anchor himself. I then climbed up to him, anchored myself, and Garvin did the last lead . This picture above shows Garvin just setting off from the end of the first pitch. The burgschrund is the lip even with the top of his pack.  If memory serves me correctly, the face was about 45 to 50 degrees.



The summit was a short scramble immediately to our left from where we topped out. Here Garvin Morris and I enjoy the view. Mt. Garabaldi is seen between us, and Sphinx on the left edge of the picture.



The picture above shows the view to the south. You can just make out Mt. Baker on the hazy horizon with Judge Howay or Robie Reid on the left of the horizon. Coming closer, Mt. Carr is in the middle top of the big snow fields, and in the foreground, Phyllis's Engine.
We descended via the west side, broke camp, and hiked out all the way to the car. I taught school the next day and was very tired. I was told Garvin took the day off! Doing that as an overnight climb from the car was pushing it a bit. It would make a great two night trip.